It’s kind of amazing how many restaurants are taking part in the first Restaurant Week of 2011. I’ve never seen so many options in all my years of RW dining. And I have to say, going through all those menus was exhausting. I can’t tell you how many organic chicken breasts, market salads, and cheesecakes I saw. So many of the menus were plagued with sameness, and I’m hoping many of the new participants will learn to innovate in the future. If you don’t have a big name, a unique menu can set your establishment apart. That said, the menus that did interest me, got me really excited to try a bunch of intriguing new places this year.
For me, the menus that stood out this time fell into a few different categories. The first were notable for the sheer breadth of options. On that account, Nuela takes the cake with a whopping 31 menu items including what would appear to be a ceviche course. Dishes include smoked brisket arepas, roasted suckling pig in a guava-pink peppercorn glaze over toasted cumin-lime rice, and hamachi ceviche with tiradito, aji amarillo leche de tigre, and fermented black garlic. Other great options include Hatsuhana’s generous bento box (incorporating everything from Tazmanian ocean trout sushi to snow crab and seaweed vinaigrette salad), Craftbar’s extensive menu of bar bites (like pecorino-stuffed risotto balls and veal-ricotta meatballs), and City Lobster & Steak’s breadth of seafood offerings (hello, lobster bake!).
I was really excited about the second group of menus. They represented places I’ve been dying to try - new establishments and oldies but goodies - that have never participated in Restaurant Week before. I’ve read so much about the National, and I’m terribly curious to try their eclectic and inventive menu, ranging from pear and parsnip soup to roasted apple cheesecake served with hard cider sorbet, fennel toffee, and cranberries. Picholine too offers an intriguing menu, with items like skate wing pastrami and beef cheeks with polenta. I already have my reservation set to check out new-ish Tom Colicchio joint Riverpark (which I so enjoyed eating at the bar of a few months ago), and I wish I could try everything on the menu; all the offerings sound fantastic from the squid ink chitarra to the cauliflower fettucine with pecorino. And of course there’s Tanuki Tavern with a surprising menu ranging from kara age (fried chicken with Thai chili honey) to warm chocolate and red miso cake. (On a side note, if you can’t make it to Tanuki Tavern before Restaurant Week is over, they’ve already taken the liberty of extending their dinner deal through the end of February.)
Last but not least comes the category of just plain cool menus. Here are my favorite picks and their most intriguing menu items (in no particular order):
Bar Boulud - For the fancy Francophile, veloute de poisson (creamy shellfish veloute, saffron tapioca, carolina shrimp).
Betel - I can’t say I’ve ever had cuttlefish (salt and pepper cuttlefish with Vietnamese dipping sauce) or monkfish (jungle curry of monkfish cheek with baby corn, spring onion, snake bean, and fried garlic). Lots of cool options in this four-course meal.
A Voce Madison and Columbus - The menus here are pretty similar, and they offer plenty of interesting Italian-inflected dishes, like Cornish hen with lentils, cotecchino, and juniper, and cavatelli with mussels, garlic, saffron, and orange.
L’ecole - I spent a summer working above the French Culinary Institute and I never managed to make it downstairs to try the restaurant. Too bad. I missed out on lots of cool-sounding dishes like chestnut gnocchi with oxtail ragu and tomato jam, and tilefish in a coconut milk veloute with baby fennel.
Norma’s - I’ve been to Norma’s a number of times, so I was really excited to see some of my favorites, like the chocolate decadence French toast and hot chestnut pancakes, along with some great dishes I haven’t had the chance to try yet.
So, as usual, I end up completely overwhelmed at the start of Restaurant Week, but that’s a good thing. I guess I just have to hope that the special gets extended again; there are so many amazing restaurants I have yet to try!
Posted by: Nicole Price Fasig