Presenting the first in our ongoing series of “throwdowns,” in which we, often along with other discerning tasters, will sample similar foods from many reputable sources in order to determine not only which is our favorite, but the strengths and weaknesses of each. Because a pizza lover’s pie need not always come from the same oven.

Pizza is a Brooklyn institution. With the spread of the artisan pizza trend, it gets a lot harder to take the easy way out and just walk across the street for a slice of pepperoni when a bubbling masterpiece of ricotta, pine nuts, and white truffle oil is just a phone call away. But how to choose between so many reputable establishments? This called for experimentation.

The Players:

Fornino – “The Art and Science of Pizza,” located on Bedford Avenue (North 6th/7th Streets) in Williamsburg
Motorino – widely renowned “Pizza Napoletana,” located on Graham Avenue and Devoe Street in Williamsburg
Roberta’s – locavore-friendly New York Mag critics’ pick, located at 261 Moore Street in Bushwick

The Pizzas: a little something creative and unusual from each menu

Fornino – Gorgonzola Pizza – Gorgonzola, mozzarella, caramelized onion, rosemary
Motorino – Artichoke Pizza – fior di latte, artichoke, smoked pancetta, parmigiano, roasted onions
Roberta’s – White Pizza – roasted peppers, onion, mushroom, smoke mozzarella, ricotta, artichoke

The Guinea Pigs: A.J., Emily, Karl, Kasey, Skylar, Stillman, along with your hosts, Nicole and Kim

First came Fornino. We had high expectations, considering how hard it can be to get a table here on weekends. With this pizza, the choice of cheese became a major point of contention. Strong, stinky Gorgonzola proved “a bit much” for Karl, and as Kasey so aptly put it, “Good crust. Yay onions! Curious cheese.” However, those who are naturally disposed to like Gorgonzola saw it differently. As Stillman observed, it worked well with the caramelized onions, which provided a welcome sweet aftertaste. Unlike the cheese, there was little argument about the genius of the crust. A thin crust lover’s dream, it was just burnt enough, with a soft, doughy center that Nicole gushed was “just like I like it.”

Next up was Roberta’s, whose toppings fared much better. Both Skylar and Nicole normally avoid mushrooms, but they (along with everyone else) agreed that here they were combined expertly with the other vegetables to create a superior bite. Karl declared, “Anything with artichoke in that amount…I mean, I love artichoke, so it’s like cheating.” Unfortunately, where the toppings promised greatness, the crust didn’t quite leave the same impression. Not terrible by any means, but this city’s many thin crust devotees might not line up for it. This one is soft and fluffy, with a hint of the flavor of French bread – pleasant, certainly, but not necessarily life-altering.

After a single bite of Motorino’s artichoke pizza, Kasey exclaimed, “This is my favorite. They treat their toppings with respect.” And it’s true – Motorino’s is a pretty pizza to look at. Toppings are well-distributed, with a clear thought to color contrast and good bite construction. Though, to be fair, to make such an attractive pie required a bit more abuse to the artichokes, which were a little bit too “dried out” compared to those on Roberta’s pizza, but it was an easier bite to take without the necessity of shoving in a giant piece of artichoke. In the end, though, the crust proved a revelation strong enough to overshadow the shortcomings of the artichoke. It was a classic thin crust, but still managed to have a doughy inside beneath the crunchy outer layer, which had a distinct flavor to it from the wood-fire oven. The overall effect of the compact pizza, Stillman noted, was a lot like foccaccia bread.

The Verdict:

Best crust: Fornino
Best toppings: Roberta’s
Best overall: Motorino

In the end, our experiment proved that crust or toppings alone do not the best pizza make. A little greatness here, and a little there, and you’ll have a pizza that is, as Goldilocks might observe, juuust right.

Posted by: Kim Partrick

Fornino
Price: $$
Location: 187 Bedford Ave. (at N. 7th St.)
Veggie Friendly? Y

Roberta’s
Price: $$
Location: 261 Moore St. (between Bogart St. and White St.)
Veggie Friendly? Y
www.robertaspizza.com

Motorino
Price: $$
Location: 319 Graham Ave., (and Devoe St.)
Veggie Friendly? Y
www.motorinopizza.com