
Horchata at Taco Taco
Half the fun of eating at a taqueria or Mexican restaurant is the beverages. Drinkers have their margaritas, sangria, tequila, Coronas, or mezcal (if they’re feeling adventurous). For non-drinkers like me, the best options are the aguas frescas: jamaica, tamarindo, and horchata. Of these, my favorite is horchata, a milky rice drink flavored with cinnamon and sugar. It’s not at all hard to find in neighborhoods with large Hispanic populations — many 7-11s in California have it in their soda fountains — but you really have to look to find it in Manhattan.
BurritoVille (remember the BV?) was for a long time the easiest way to get your horchata fix, but that stuff was pretty mediocre, and the chain’s completely out of business now. Which means it’s up to the smaller shops to bring us our aguas frescas until McDonald’s decides to buy millions of gallons of horchata for its Chipotle outlets.
The three best places I’ve found to get horchata are Noche Mexicana on the Upper West Side, La Esquina in SoHo, and Taco Taco on the Upper East Side.
La Esquina, the little taco-stand/cafe/posh restaurant combo on Kenmare, has the most unremarkable version. A medium-size cup of it will run you around $4, and it usually takes two of them to sate my craving on a hot summer day. I mention La Esquina as a best horchata contender because sitting outside devouring killer tacos, grilled corn, and horchata is one of my favorite sunny Saturday afternoon activities, and La Esquina is the best place to do it.
Noche Mexicana, on Amsterdam and 102nd, has the best horchata deal to be had north of the Rio Grande. It’s just an unassuming hole in the wall, but go there soon, and order the homemade pork tamales with the large horchata. Make sure you order the large, because they serve it in a ginormous plastic bucket. If you’ve ever ordered a large egg drop soup from a takeout Chinese restaurant, you know the container I’m talking about. The bucket o’ horchata costs just under $5. I go there at least once a week, and am working my way through the entire menu. Haven’t had a miss yet.
The reigning King of NYC Horchata is, far and away, Taco Taco on 2nd Ave and 90th. I had it for the first time last week, and was completely stunned. Whereas most horchata has the consistency of 1 percent milk, Taco Taco’s was rich, frothy and sweet, with a spoonful of cinnamon sprinkled on top for you to stir in. It comes in a large glass, and costs a mere $2 (so you can get two or three of them). I’m not sure how authentic it is, as it doesn’t drink like any horchata I’ve ever had, but if this isn’t the horchata they drink in Mexico, than the Mexicans are missing out on something special. It’s enough to make your passionfruit-margarita-swilling friends jealous.
Got another good horchata spot? Lemme know in the comments!
Posted by: Kyle Monson
Noche Mexicana
Location: 852 Amsterdam Ave. (between 102 and 103 St.)
www.noche-mexicana.com
La Esquina
Location: 114 Kenmare St. (and Lafayette St.)
www.esquinanyc.com
Taco Taco
Location: 1726 2nd Ave. (at 90th St.)