In the sparse far western reaches of Williamsburg, the residential, retail, and food scenes are still figuring themselves out. This is good news for foodies because experimental food and lower rents mean more exciting dishes for less money for those willing to walk a few extra blocks from the subway. Case in point: Mercat Negre, which began doling out tapas in true Barcelona tradition just a few weeks ago. Even if you had been heading to this out-of-the-way block for something other than tapas, you could hardly miss the gorgeous space while passing by. Through its windowed facade onto Grand Street, you’ll see walls of white brick accented with a dark wood bar and tables, an open kitchen, and, if you peer further, you’ll notice a private dining area through an upstairs window that couldn’t be more romantic. Apparently, there’s also a rooftop space that should sport some great views come spring!
But let’s get to the main event: the food. While our server was enthusiastic, helpful, and knowledgeable about the sometimes-baffling half-Catalan offerings, not all of the food lived up to his excited explanations. Beginning with the bad news, our starter was “fish and chips,” a play on the classic version using salmon rather than cod and integrating the sticks of fish with the fries so that in the dim, romantic lighting it was often a surprise which one you’d be eating. While the fries and the wasabi mayonnaise atop the dish were delicious, the salmon, which should have been the main event, turned out to be far too salty. As a result, when reaching into the basket, I’d pray for a fry rather than the fish, when it should really be the other way around. For my entrée, I chose the duck burger with pecorino, and while it was definitely tasty, the taste was simply of a delicious burger with a good cheese. Given that the nature of a burger is that it isn’t cooked quite as delicately as duck normally would be, the duck flavor I love so much did not shine through. That being said, it came once again with those same fries from the fish and chips, this time served with a spicy, smoky tomato sauce traditionally served with patatas bravas in Barcelona, and the combination was excellent.
The good news, though, is that there are things other than the fries on Mercat’s intriguing menu that shine much brighter than any complaints about salty fish or not-ducky-enough duck. One of these is the “coca de recapte amb sardines,” or, as we affectionately termed it, sardines on toast. I know…sardines. The chef, though, seems fully aware of how wary many Americans are of this typically-canned fish, and incorporates it beautifully with both good-quality bread and “escalivada,” grilled, marinated vegetables also traditional in Barcelona. What results is the definition of a well-balanced bite, in which the sardine definitely comes through, but does not overpower the other ingredients, which serve to soften its strong flavor.
Other must-tries on future visits include the chicken and pork meatballs, the veal roll with vegetables and cheddar cheese, and the spinach, raisin, and pine nut croquette, among many other offerings. And with most dishes $7 and under and few over $10, it’s a definite repeat. Though the restaurant, like the neighborhood, is still figuring itself out, I’d say it’s doing a pretty good job so far.
Posted by: Kim Partrick
Order: fish & chips, cheeseburger d’anec, coca de recapte amb sardines
Price: $-$$
Location: 65 Grand Street (at Wythe), Brooklyn
Type of Food: Spanish
Veggie Friendly? Y
www.mercatnegre.com
